The belt is not stuck. The secondary is just closed.
A rider changes his first belt on a Polaris and learns a habit: push the movable sheave of the secondary open, let the belt fall to the bottom of the sheaves, and roll it off the primary. It works because there is enough spring travel to get slack.
Then that same rider buys a CF Moto U10 Pro, opens the clutch cover, and nothing moves. He leans on it. He puts a screwdriver in there. He gets frustrated and decides the belt is seized to the sheaves. It is not. The Omni Drive secondary on that machine is simply not designed to be opened with hand pressure, and the belt has nowhere to go until the sheaves are forced apart mechanically.
Why slack has to come from the secondary
A CVT belt has no free length. It is captive between two pairs of sheaves, and its effective length is fixed. The only way to get enough slack to lift it over the outer edge of the primary is to let the belt drop deeper into the secondary, which means increasing the gap between those two sheave faces.
On the Omni Drive system, that gap is held shut by clamping force you are not going to overcome with your thumbs. The correct way to open it is with a threaded spreader that pushes against the sheave faces in a controlled, even way. The CF Moto U10 Pro Secondary Belt Change Tool does exactly that. It fits all CF Moto machines with Omni Drive clutches, including the 2025-2026 CF Moto U10 Pro, and it drives with a common 4mm Allen head. It also ships with a bit of our Tink Seal lube so it turns smoothly instead of galling on the threads.
What prying actually costs you
This is the part most people do not connect. Sheave faces are the friction surface that transmits every bit of your engine's torque to the belt. They are machined smooth for a reason. When you put a screwdriver, a pry bar, or a tire iron between the belt and the sheave and lever on it, you leave gouges and raised burrs in aluminum.
Those marks do not go away. They become the thing that shaves rubber off the sides of the new belt on every shift cycle. A rider who pries in a belt swap can be back inside the clutch cover weeks later wondering why a fresh belt is already glazed and losing width. He damaged the surface the belt rides on, and no belt brand fixes that.
The trailside math
The tool is small enough to live in the machine with your spare belt. If you are running a U10 Pro loaded, towing, or working it in low range where clutch temperature climbs, a spare belt is only useful if you can actually get the old one out where you broke down. A fourteen dollar tool in the toolbox is the difference between a fifteen minute repair and a winch ride home.
Do the alignment check while you are in there
Since the cover is already off, look at how the belt sits between the primary and secondary. If the belt is not tracking evenly between the two clutches, it will run hot on one side and wear unevenly no matter how new it is. CF Moto U10 Pro owners can correct that with CF Moto U10 Pro Clutch Alignment Shims, which realign the clutches so the belt sits square in the sheaves.
And when it is time for the belt itself, the Hunterworks Exclusive CF Moto U10 Pro Belt CF10GC is made in the USA and fits all years of the U10 Pro. Note that it does not fit the regular or older UForce, which is a different machine entirely.
The short version: get the right tool, open the secondary the way it was meant to be opened, and leave the sheave faces exactly as smooth as you found them.